Well, this is undeniably delicious and fine. The 12th release from Dermot Sugrue's own operation, farming 20-year-old vines in Sussex, it is 60% Pinot and 40% Chardonnay, and 40% of the base wine was fermented in French oak barriques and older, 600-litre demi-muids. It then had 32 months on the lees. Pale lemon/straw with copious minuscule bubbles, aromas are captivating, spanning a hint of toast and Brazil nut, fresh ceps, and an airy, light but nutty russet apple. There is an ozone and mineral salts freshness too. In the mouth, the wine burst with ripe, exuberant and sweet fruit. It's not sugar, this bottled with just 6g/l dosage, but it is fruity to its core, without sacrificing elegance or vivacious punch. So much dazzling, saline acidity and that bready, nutty hint of richer depth beneath the rippling surface. Fabulous.
The lowly 4g/l dosage of Gosset's 2016 vintage gives a bite and mouthwatering freshness to the blend, which includes an unusually high 61% Chardonnay, along with 39% Pinot Noir. It was disgorged on March 2024 so spent over seven years on the lees. Biscuit and a delicate truffle earthiness marry with orangey citrus fruits, a little straw-like herbal character too. In the mouth it has good volume, but the low dosage means it is propelled by taut acidity of crisp apple and minerals, with a bit of grippiness for sure. Fruit is cool and clear, and it finishes with precision. It's an understated and aesthetic style this, that reveals its undoubted charms slowly but surely.
A new addition to the Gosset portfolio, this is in many ways a work of time. The non-vintage blend is based on the 2013 harvest, the base wine spending a year in tank with lees stirring before being bottled in the spring of 2015 with its liqueur de tirage. The wine then spent a full 10 years on the lees, being disgorged in spring 2025. Sourced from notable Crus including Ambonnay, Avize, Bouzy, Cramant and Cumières, it is a blend of 62% Chardonnay and 38% Pinot Noir.
I very much enjoyed this bone dry Champagne, the nose principally nutty, yeasty and biscuity, with a lemon pith and salts sense of minerality. All that time on the lees means texture and creamy weight on the palate, though the lemon and Seville orange brightness and punch, plus the tempered steel core of the acidity, shines through. That gives this wine exhilarating intensity, clarity, and length. It is a food wine too - from seafood to Thai or Sezchuan cuisine.